Gold and Silver medals at the International Brussels Fair of 1887
Gold medal at the International Turin Fair of 1902
Gold medal at the International Athens Fair of 1903
Gold medal at the International Budapest Fair of 1907
The Domaine Bott-Geyl, established in 1947, is a family-owned domaine now run by Jean-Christophe Bott. Based in Beblenheim, the source of many of the grapes for their wines, the domaine owns a total of 13 hectares of vines, including some in a number of Grand Cru sites. These include Sonnenglanz, Schoenenbourg, Mandelberg and Fürstentum.
Over recent years this domaine has improved considerably, and is now widely considered as one of the better and more reliable domaines in Alsace. Few would yet rank it alongside the top estates such as Trimbach, Weinbach, Zind-Humbrecht or Schoffit, however, although some would argue this point. Certainly, the wines have found favour with a number of influential wine critics. Steven Tanzer describes them as fruit driven and "user-friendly", and obviously enjoys the wines. Robert Parker rates the domaine as "excellent", and quotes the purity, concentration, multilayered textures and faithful varietal characteristics as reasons for his finding the wines of this estate so enjoyable.
Viticultural techniques at Bott-Geyl are described by Jean-Christophe Bott as "nearly organic". The vines average thirty years of age. Hand-harvesting, gentle pressings and fermentation using only natural, indigenous yeasts are the norm at this domaine. After fermentation, the wines may spend some time on their lees (dead yeasts), perhaps up to six months. This helps the wines develop richness, and has no doubt contributed to the popularity these wines enjoy.
The domaine produces some 8000 cases of wines per year, a tawdry amount considering there are at least sixteen different wines produced. The basic varietal wines are labelled according to the village from where the grapes were grown. When it comes to the Grand Cru wines, these are obviously labelled according to the Grand Cru in question. As mentioned above, Bott-Geyl owns vines in a number of sites, but I personally feel that Sonnenglanz and Fürstentum are the two most significant. Fürstentum is responsible for some superb Rieslings, and Sonnenglanz is of interest because of the delicious Tokay Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminers that originate from this site. Bott-Geyl is widely regarded as the top producer of Sonnenglanz wines. (27/06/01)
Wines from this small, up-and-coming Alsace estate have in the past five years, gained in notoriety for their distinctive style: Racy, mineral-infused Reislings, perfumed, dry Klevene Pinot Blanc and a stand-out, single vineyard Sylvaner. Patrick Meyer, proprietor of Domaine Julien Meyer, believes deeply that terroir is paramount for allowing his wines their most expensive outlet. Each climate has a unique terroir and soils are widely varied. These differences in soil type contribute significantly to the remarkable subtleties in aroma and flavor for which wines of Alsace are admired. Thus, the style of Julien Meyer leans to a more traditional, elegant breed of wine.
Vineyards
The vineyards of Chateau Le Thil
Comte Clary are remarkably located in the center of three Classified Growths of
the Pessac-Leognan appellation : Chateau Bouscaut, Chateau Carbonnieux and
Chateau Smith-Haut-Laffite. The very high reputation
of these neighboring chateaux clearly underlines the fantastic potential of
Chateau Le Thil Comte Clary. Very well exposed, the vineyard has one main
particularity: its clay-chalky soil with some gravel areas is strongly
reminiscent of the Saint Emilion region. This particular agronomic
characteristic explains the choice of grape varieties planted which do not
correspond to those usually planted in the Graves area. For red wine,
Chateau Le Thil is mainly planted with Merlot (75 %) on
account of the large proportion of clay. Cabernet-Sauvignon (25 %) is
planted on the gravel parcels. For white wine, the two principal grape varieties
of the Bordeaux region are used: Semillon (50 %) and Sauvignon (50 %). All
the work carried out in the vineyard has one single objective: to achieve
perfectly healthy grapes in an ideal state of ripeness. In order to complete the
traditional methods of growing and a constant phytosanitary struggle, additional
operations with an objective of improving the quality have been added: on each
side of the rows of vines the leaves are thinned out by hand and when necessary,
crop thinning is carried out (green harvest). The leaves covering the
grapes are removed by hand in order to allow a better exposure to the sun and
improve aeration in order to limit the risk of grey rot. This selective
picking of green grapes allows each vine-plant to have only a moderate and a
harmoniously balanced production of grapes. This
means that the grapes enjoy the ideal conditions to grow and reach maturity.
These long and meticulous operations underline the policy of the estate to allow
the vineyard to reach its optimal level of expression.
Region
Pouilly Fuisse, a Maconnais appellation that in the 80 was the cat meow and in the 1990 was dismissed as yesterday news, covers the five village of Pouilly, Fuisse, Solutre, Vergisson and Chaintre. The best vineyards are said to be near the town of Solutre; the best growers have designated vineyard names from this part of Pouilly, such as Aux Chailloux, Les Boutiers, Les Peloux, Les Pras, etc. Similarly, the vineyards surrounding Fuisse are known to produce richer, fuller wines, as these hillside spots receive the maximum amount of sunshine. Chardonnay is so malleable, portraying a wide variety of styles, especially with its attraction to oak ageing and experimentation. The handful of producers in the region who maintain low yields and do not overproduce, are able to turn out distinctive, desirable Chardonnay from Macon Solutre to Pouilly Fuisse.
The Renaissance of the Coteaux de Seyssuel as a quality wine producing region is attributed to the vision of three talented northern Rhone winemakers. After delving into historical data and ancient essays, they discovered that this minuscule village on the left bank of the Rhone just above Vienne, had once been a source for excellent Syrah, with terroir to rival its neighbors in Côte-Rotie and Condrieu, just three miles to the south. It was during the Roman era that Seyssuel produced such a wealth of red wine, but when phylloxera ravaged the vines at the end of the 19th century, viticultural activity ceased. Yet, all the elements exist for high quality production in Seyssuel: soil, exposure, varietals, yields and ageability
Francois Villard, producing Saint-Joseph, Cote-Rotie and Condrieu, Pierre Gaillard, vigneron in Saint- Joseph, Côte-Rotie and Condrieu, and Yves Cuilleron, producing Condrieu, recently joined forces and debuted Les Vins de Vienne in Spring 2000. The illustrious lineup includes red and white wines ranging from Condrieu and Cote-Rotie in the north, all the way south to Chateauneuf-du-Pape, plus their own single-vineyard estate wine called Sotanum.
Region
Domaine de la Garrigue is located just northwest of the village of
Vacqueryras, on a vast plain that is boarded by Gigondas to the East, and Violes
to the North. La Garrigue has 50 hectares planted, including 2 hectares in the
appellation Gigondas. Both Gigondas and Vacqueryras are relatively recent
appellations, with the former granted AOC status in 1971; Vacqueryras only in
1990. It is understandable, then, that of the 160 growers in this appellation,
only 27 produce and bottle their own wine. In Gigondas, only red and rose
saignee are permitted by the AC laws. In Vacqueryras, white wine production is
allowed as well. The Domaine produces a Vacqueryras
we refer to as with polished rusticity that
screams of terroir; a Vacqueryras Cuvee Special which has more Grenache
in the blend, is aged in one year-old barrels from Jayer-Giles in the Cotes de
Nuits; a custom-cuvee Coted du Rhone for European Cellars called Cuvee
Romaine, which is actually declassified Vacqueryras and a very limited
quantity of Gigondas, produced from 75% Vielles Vignes
Grenache.
Quote from Eric Solomon:
Domaine d Andezon is one of the best examples of European Cellars
Custom-Cuvee projects.In 1994, I visited the Vignerons d Estazarques and
met a young, passionate director/winemaker named Jean-Francois Nicq. By the end
of the day, we had decided on a custom bottling of old vine syrah from one of
their best parcels, Andezon.
This opaque-black, blockbuster Syrah could have been Australian Shiraz.
What a find! Previously sold in bulk to a very famous producer in the Rhone
Valley, we jumped at the opportunity. Now, four vintages later, we were able to
offer this wine as a core brand of European Cellars, with an annual volume of
8-10.000 cases depending on the vintage. Last year we took a further step. We
selected the best of the best Syrah and put them in new and one year old
barrels. Only 250 cases of the Cotes du Rhone-Villages barrique wine were made.
It was in the late 1980s that Thierry Michon and his brother Eric, took over
the vineyards of Domaine Saint Nicolas, upon their fathers retirement. They
quickly changed the viticulture as well as the wine making methods. They turned
the vines to biodynamy and built a modern facility, and aimed at high quality
wines. Today, after welcoming the creation of the appellation Fiefs Vendeens,
Thierry and Eric Michon have become the engine of the newly
found recognition of the region and placed it under the spotlights.
What could be a worse idea than to import yet another Chardonnay from the south of France. Would I be committing vinous suicide by succumbing to market pressures for cheap, varietally labeled wines? No, not this time.
Novellum Chardonnay
This is a special cuvee, a barrel project I developed with one of my
producers in St.Chinian. The vineyards had some 25-year old Chardonnay, some of
which was on a hillside next to a small river. In the mornings, this particular
patch gets fog which resulted in Botrytis!
Instead of tossing out those sweet little grapes trying to make a
one-dimensional wine, we used them. The result is a 100% Chardonnay that is
full, ripe and hinting of tropical fruit. Interestingly, we age the chardonnay
on the lees of the estate's own Viognier, capturing its elusive fragrance. We do
a limited elevage in wood, about 10% of the cuvee, to give another dimension of
textural interest. Coupled with precison and elegance; this is a wine to buy by
the case and enjoy it.
A young agronomist studying at the University of Montpellier back in the 70s, The grape vines had grown wild and the huge olive trees were ancient; it was obvious to Jean Orliac that this location had been cultivated in ages past, producing the classic Mediterranean trio - olives, wine and wheat, and that this would be an ideal site to produce a Grand Vin, the dream of this passionate man.
Region
Starting with 5 hectares
and acquiring another 50 soon after, Jean Orliac named his property l Hortus,
the Latin translation for The Garden, as homage to the land and its
tradition. Early on, his grapes were transported to the local Cave Cooperative
for pressing; in 1990 his cellars were built which allowed him to vinify and
bottle on his own property. The site is classified and produces
wines under the appellation, Pic Saint-Loup, Coteaux du Languedoc
Controlee.
Located in the best parcel of Saint-Chinian, this fabulous estate has been rescued by the passionate and talented Marc Valette. Marc believes that the best winemaking begins in the vineyard. Since his first harvest in 1992, Marc's singular focus has been to produce the ripest fruit and obtain the maximum extraction during vinification. Today, the focus is the same, although certain methods have been modified to produce a slightly less muscular wine. Canet Valette has set the precedence for quality winemaking in this relatively unknown Languedoc growing region.
Region
About 2000 hectares of vineyards are dispersed among 20 villages, planted mostly
on south-facing hillsides at up to 1000 feet. In the north, the soil is schiste,
resulting in wines which are hard to distinguish from those of neighboring
Faugeres; but to the south there is ample limestone and clay, bearing fruitier
yet more robust wines. Canet Valette's 18 hectares are located in the hills
outside the village of Cessenon. The vineyards are 12 years old, except for
Carignan vines, which are 20-25 years old.
Les Laquets
European Cellars introduces the brand new estate of Cosse Maisonneuve founded by Catherine Maisonneuve and Mattieu Cosse, they are focusing on one wine - an incredibly rich Cahors, produced at their certified biodynamic property. The Malbec vineyards are located over 5.6 hectares and are more than 40 years of age. The terroir is rich in iron and well-suited to the Malbec varietal, which has been planted using selection massale. The cuvaison is long with punching down of the cap. The wine, called Les Laquets, stays in barrels for 18 to 22 months, in new and one-year oak. Great care is taken to produce a wine which is the truest expression of the terroir from which it came.
Situation
Castel del Remi is located in the municipal district
of Penelles, in the province of Lleida, and falls within the Costers del Segre
DO. Located in Western Catalonia, the estate is 120 kilometres from Barcelona,
and 100 km from the Mediterranean sea.
Physical Geography & Climate
Situated at 270 meters above sea level, in the country of La Noguera they enjoy
all the characteristics related to the Mediterranean-continental climate.
This is an area of cold, often-foggy winters (the average day-time temperature
in January is 4.7 C, falling to between 4 and 8 degree below zero at night) and
hot summers (although the average day-time temperature in July is 24.4 C, in
August it is not uncommon to be at 38 C).
Rainfalls is limited, and as a rule both the summers and winters are bone dry.
When it does rain, it is invariably in the spring and the autumn and no more
than 250 ml/year (desert).
As regards winds, those that predominate are westerly and north-westerly, mainly
in March and June.
In the summer, however, given the proximity of the sea, each evening regular
maritime breezes refresh the grapes that have patiently baked throughout the
day. This breeze is call Marinada.
The vineyard
The Castel del Remei estate consists of one giant
parcel of 400 hectares. Just 80 are dedicated to vines, which are an average age
of 20 years old.
These are all trained on wires (following the Royal double system) and consist
of: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo, Garnacha, Syrah, Macabeo,
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.
Plantation density is 2000 and 3800 plants per hectare, with yields of around
6.000 kilos per hectare.
The clones and rootstocks vary significantly in accordance with the grape
variety and soil type.
The local varieties that form such an intrinsic part of our blends - principally
Uli de Llebre/Tempranillo and to a lesser extent Garnacha - come from a network
of local growers, most of whom are within 15 km from the estate, ensuring easy
control and supervision in terms of vineyard management and harvesting.
Given the generous character of the region's reds, a consequence of its arid
soils and intense seasonal sunshine. All the wines have a great structure.
The State
The State of Castell del Remei has several buildings that used to be inhabited
by more that 50 families. Among them is worth to mention the Castle with more
that 80 windows, the church devoted to the virgin of Remei, the Restaurant open
to the public, the cellars and other like the olive oil mill dated 1793, the
four mill, the old distillery, the barrel workshop etc.
The state reached the status of Colony in the XIX century and all their
inhabitants had all the related privileges like the exemption to go to the
military service among others. Still today Castell del Remei has its own Postal
Code E-25333 (Spain)
History
During last century, Ignasi Girona a businessman with a degree in
Agricultural Engineering from Paris University, engaged in the metallurgical
industry, was spurred by what he had seen of French viticulture to extend and
renovate the limited winemaking facilities belonging to his father on the
Castell del Remei estate, which had been in the family
since 1780.
It was a propitious moment as, given the advent of phylloxera elsewhere, the
Spanish wine trade was booming.
Ignasi accordingly visited Bordeaux in order to research and obtain everything
that would be necessary to realize his project; and having duly studied
viticulture and oenology - in particular the sciences of ageing wines - he
returned to Catalonia, armed with a winemaker and four families of farmers, in
order to ensure that his vineyards be adequately tended and his wines made to
the highest standards.
He then set about constructing what to this day remains the core of the winery,
initiated production and maturation of his wines in American oak casks, and in
this way became the first Catalan producers to seal its own branded, bottled
matured wines.
Between 1889 and 1907, the wines of Castell del Remei
won numerous prizes, including:
|
Gold and Silver medals at the International Brussels Fair of 1887
|
|
Gold medal at the International Turin Fair of 1902
|
|
Gold medal at the International Athens Fair of 1903
|
|
Gold medal at the International Budapest Fair of 1907
|
In 1921, following the phylloxera scourge, Ignasi extended
the capacity of the winery and built an annex for the production of white wines,
and was amongst the first in Spain to begin importing foreign vines - primarily
Semillon and Cabernet Sauvignon - as part of a major post-phylloxera replanting
program.
These varieties together with those indigenous to the area such as Macabeo,
Moscatel, and Garnacha, formed part of what eventually amounted to more than 400
hectares of vineyards; and by purchasing fruit from local growers too,
Castell del Remei soon became the largest producer of quality
wines in all of Catalonia. Given the Girona family's overseas connections,
exports also boomed.
In 1923, Ignasi died, to be succeeded by his brother Joan, who forged on with
equal energy, winning the top prize at the Barcelona World Fair of 1929.
During the Civil War the property sustained considerable damage, not least
because of the explosion of a munitions store adjacent to the buildings housing
the winery; and afterwards, considerable rebuilding was necessary.
Joan tacked this with characteristic drive, and by the time of his death, in
1950, had succeeded in re-establishing the fortunes of the estate.
Following Joan's death, however, the estate became a helm-less Limited Compagny,
which, despite continuing to make wine in the absence of personal vision,
direction or investment, saw inexorably decreasing production, and ever more
sporadic quality allowing the installations and property to fall into disrepair.
In 1982 the Cusine family bought the estate and immediately set about restoring
it to its former glory - no small undertaking given the scale of the estate and
such historic neglect.
Since then, in addition to committed personnel, major investment has been
ploughed into: revitalizing the vineyards, with new plantations of Cabernet and
Merlot; indispensable equipments such as new stainless steel hoppers,
de-stalkers, pneumatic presses, steel fermenters, extensive refrigeration and
filtration systems, new barriques, and a completely up-to-date bottling line.
In addition, not only have the old grain silos been converted into bottle
stores, but a sizeable proportion of the old out-houses have been converted into
modern offices, which, nonetheless, retain a rich, colorful, and rustic
atmosphere totally in keeping with their context.
D.O. Costers Del Segre
This is a small Do of 3.886 hectares, divided into 6 sub-zones.
The area is characterized by calcareous soils and a Continental climate
singularly sparse in rainfall.
Authorized whites varieties are : Macabeo, Parellada, Chardonnay, Xarel-lo,
Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling.
Authorized Black varieties are: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Cariena, Merlot,
Monastrell, Syrah, Trepat, and Uli de Llebre/Tempranillo.
The Wine Advocate
This extraordinary Rioja producer is one of my personal favorites from that famed viticultural area. 1997 was a poor vintage in Rioja, yet Artadi has produced an elegant 1997 Crianza Vinas de Gain with notes of cherries, peanut better, and vanilla. It is a beautifully-etched, finesse-styled Crianza with sweet fruit, medium body, and a fine length. Drink it over the next 3-5 years. 88pts. The dark ruby/purple colored 1996 Pagos Viejos is a fabulous Rioja. It boasts a complex bouquet of lead pencil, red as well as black currants, spices box, cedar, and tobacco. Made from low yields, the wine displays a gorgeous mid-palate, great depth and purity, and a finish that lingers for nearly 40 seconds. Drink this spectacular effort over the next 15-25 years. The recently bottled 1998 Pagos Viejos is one of the greatest Rioja I have ever tasted. A dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by a sweet nose of violets, black fruit, minerals, toasty oak, and smoke. The wine is full-bodied, with gorgeous purity, amazing symmetry for its exceptional size, and an incredibly well-delineated finish. In short, it is greet stuff. Anticipated maturity 2005-2025. The most spectacular Artadi offering is the limited production 1996 Vina El Pison. Fashioned from a vineyard planted in 1931 on pure limestone, this wine is outrageously rich complex, and profound. A dense ruby/purple color is followed by aromas of sweet black fruits, vanilla, flowers, and minerals. There are layers of fruit, great flavor, extraction, unbelievable finesse, complexity and elegance. The finish lasts for nearly a minute. Full-bodied and super-concentrated, this compelling Rioja will be at its peak between 2002-2005.
The affable and thoroughly charming Ricardo Sanz, whose family owns Cuevas de Castilla in
Rueda, and who does wonders with the Verdejo grape at Palacio de Menade, is behind this new venture called Cuvee RS. This is the family who has done more to further the positive reputation of Rueda, which today is known as one of Spain s best regions for white wine production.
(Ironically, the region is also known for its lamb and
pata-negra, the
prized black pig whose thinly sliced melt-in-your-mouth flavor is savored by
all.).
The grape
The Verdejo varietal has a long history, going back to the middle of
the 11th century, when it was first realized as a wild vegetable. After a period
of over one hundred years when Rueda lay fallow, allowing wildlife and
vegetation to rejuvenate, King Alfonso VI, inspired the cultivation of the
grape, Verdejo, mainly to satisfy the ever thirsty royal courts and higher
beings. Back then, Verdejo was vinified in a similar fashion to Sherry and
interestingly, this varietal needed little help in becoming oxidized!.
Fast-forward to the 1970 s...As tastes changed, people (especially in northern
Europe) wanted fresh, crisp, light, fruity whites - nothing of the Solera sort.
Region
Hacienda Monasterio is a 65 hectare vineyard located in the Valley of
the Duero River, halfway between Pesquera del Duero and Vallbuena del Duero, two
towns which are world-famous for their wines. They are on the right hand side of
the Duero River on its way to Portugal, with a perfect southern exposure. In the
nineteenth century, the vineyard was owned by the Lecanda family, pioneers in
the area's wine producing tradition. The estate, located on a southern hillside,
covers 120 hectares, half of which are planted to vines. The region has a
continental climate with cold winters and hot summer. Rainfall is moderate,
ranging from 450 mm to 500 mm per year.
Varietals
Tinto Fino, selection massal accounts for roughly 60% of the
vines planted at the estate and comes from the region's oldest vineyards.
Cabernet Sauvignon vines, which make up about 20% of the vineyards, are
from four low-yielding Bordeaux clones, and are planted in the sites with the
poorest soils and best orientation.
Merlot, at 15% also comes from five low-yielding Bordeaux clones and is
planted in the clay soils of the vineyards.
Malbec represents 2.5% planted on the highest elevation sections of the
vineyard planted from Bordeaux.
Petit Verdot is planted at 2.5%
Founded in 1991, this family-owned estate is located in the
up-and-coming Somontano region of northeastern Spain, Enate is a winery
that defies expectation. From its dramatic, modern architecture, to its state of
the art wine making facility to its choice of northern European grape varieties,
Enate resembles the best of Napa Valley, transported to the
remote foothills of the Pyrenees.
High vineyard elevation and mountain sheltered climatic
conditions provide ideal temperature and humidity for the production of balanced
wines with good acidity. Low-pressure pneumatic presses, temperature-controlled
stainless steel maceration and fermentation tanks, and new French and American
cooperage are employed to obtain good, clean fruit with a silken texture.
Minimal handling of the fruit ensures that the distinctiveness of each variety
and site are preserved.
Bodegas Castano were created by Ramon Castano Santa, and his
3 sons. This influx of family knowledge means that the expansion of the winery
is paralleled by the acquisition of new vineyards. Initially the vineyards were
planted entirely of Monastrell and Garnacha but were slowly restructured and
planted with other varieties. Today, the estate is 350 hectares of vineyards, in
3 zones, geographically and characteristically different. Two of them are
located in the North in the area called Pozuelo and Las Gruesas (700m elevation)
and one to the South in the zone called Espinal (600m elevation). These
differences in elevation and type of soil allow a differentiation in the quality
of the wines.
At the moment, they have the top of the art in terms of technology to vinify as
well as to bottle, and a cellar for 1300 barrels of French and American oak.
Bodegas Castano, as it is know today for its entrepreneurial spirit, focus and
vision, really begun in the early 80's when it slowly and carefully started to
experiment with bottling.
Bodegas Castano were the pioneers in the region experimenting with Monastrell
(pure or assembled), with Carbonic Maceration, with the aging in barrel, the
pioneers of barrel fermentation of white wine with Macabeo (pure of blended), of
the vinification of a semi-sweet rose Monastrell natural, of the vinification of
red sparkling wines of Monastrell.
This area is located about 100 km west of Valencia; it's on a
high plateau 700 meters above sea level. This location is near two towns:
Requena and Utiel, which both have an old tradition in bulk wine.
Mustiguillo has four vineyards in different locations in the region. Two of them
are located in the north, with an altitude from 825 meters to 900 meters. The
third one is in the northwest with an altitude of 800 meters, and is where the
winery is located. The last one is in the south, with an altitude of 600 meters.
The principal variety is Bobal. Secondary, other varieties include: Tempranillo,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha Tintorea, Syrah and Merlot. The vineyards range
from two to seventy years old.
The Bobal grapes are vigorous and very productive. The biggest are the old vines
of the plantation. There are only 1,600 plants per Hectare which helps producing
bigger grapes. This variety has a long cycle and must be fully ripe to elaborate
a good wine.
The hand harvest of fully ripe is done in a little box of 12 kg. If the vineyard
is far from the winery, they use little trucks equipped with a fridge. When the
grapes arrive at the winery, there are put on a selection table. The
fermentation is made in little tanks of French oak. Depending on the variety
they are making; the wines will stay in skin macerations. After that, the wines
go down to the cellar into a new oak barrel and will stay inside about 15
months. Then, they prepare the blend for the future wine.
Moixent is located at southwest of Valencia region, and it's has great climatic conditions and soils for vine cropping. The inhabitants of the region have been cropping vineyards and winemaking for the past 2000 years, and almost all the hundred typical buildings of the village have a cellar. The Valencia wines get natural high alcohol and color content due to the climate conditions allowing great maturity and concentration. It is a fact that in early XIX (19th) century the region's wine demand grows debt to their quality to improve weak and lighter wines. This situation makes that Valencia's growers become organized in coops in the which quantity is a precept over quality. The result was a reconstruction of the vineyards looking for massive wine productions to be exported in bulks traded by big multinational companies installed in Valencia's harbor.
Cellar del Roure was born in 1995 as a small familiar company, with Pablo Calatayud first involved in the project, with his father and brother, looking for making the best red wines possible in the region. The project is advised by the expert consultant Sara Perez (Mas Martinet Viticultors), and is based on the 25 Has. of vineyards planted at the village of Moixent, that will be able to produce 100.000 kg of best quality grapes. The vineyards are located in three different blocks at the northern slope of the Serra Grossa, at 550 meters over sea level. All the soils are in slopes and are poor, but have different textures and compositions, and of course different microclimatic conditions, that determine the selection of the varieties and the most interesting clones. The 25 Has. are planted with Mando, Monastrell, Cariena, Tempranilloe, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot.
Today the provisional cellar is prepared to receive the harvest picked in small baskets, to select and separate the best grapes, to ferment separately varieties and qualities in small tanks with temperature control. Ageing is done in a small conditioned area, in the which lay today 200 barrels (90% French-oak- 10% American oak).
Located in the north of the Iberian Peninsula between the
Pyrenees in the north and the Elbro river valley in the south; Navarre, known as
Navarra in Spain is located in a privilege crossroad of cultures.
The wine could not be different to the diverse artistic and cultural
manifestations together with the recompiled testimonies throughout history of
the ancient kingdom of Pamplona.
In the Middle Age, vineyards were expended and wines from Navarre continued its
expansion until the 19 century, when the Phylloxera arrived from France and
destroyed 90% of the vineyards.
In the 20 century, the region recovered quickly with new plantations and the
establishment of co-operatives, which eventually lead to the foundation of
numerous wineries.
Today, Navarre as a wine producing region, in being re-launched, supported by a
total of 13,000 hectares producing 55 millions of wine.
Navarre splits into five sub-zones to climate:
|
Tierra Estalla
|
|
Valdizarbe
|
|
Baja Montana
|
|
Ribera Alta
|
| Ribera Baja |
The diversity of
the zones is explained by the continental climate and its striking thermal
contrasts; Atlantic influences in the Ribera Alta, and Mediterranean in the
proximity of the Ebro rive. Rainfall total ranges from 488 mm in Ribera Baja and
680 mm in the north. The same diversity can be founds in soils, predominantly
limestone layers, but some zones posses a red clay layer soil.
Today, there is a tendency to re-launched Navarre wine
proceeding from soft material soils with a less percentage of clay, poor in
organic material healthy and good permeability.
Red vine varieties in the Denomination of Origin Navarra at present are
Garnacha, Tempranillo, Graciano, and Cabarnet Sauvignon. Whites varieties are
Viura, Malvasia, Garnacha Blanca and Chardonnay.
In the Denomination of Origin red wine is predominate. In the north Tempranillo
dominates; wines have a more Atlantic character, and flavors of red crisp fruit.
In the south, Garnacha imposes: resulting in more warm wines with tons of mature
black fruit, well balanced and soft on the palate. The famous rose generally
made from Garnacha: wines of rose raspberry color, fresh and fruity; on the
palate well balanced, tasteful and with a great greasiness. White wines account
for a minority of the region's production and are made from Chardonnay; wines
with a golden yellow color, creamy and toasted flavors. Finally, we have to
mention the sweet wine made from Moscatel de Grano Menudo, a
traditional grape variety on its way to recover. Aromas of honey on the nose
tasteful, complex, fresh on the palate.
ARTAZU, THE PROJECT
In 1996, a process of close relations to the zones of the
north of Navarre started, with a large tradition of viticulture and where the
Garnacha grapes still dominate.
We strive to know all peculiarities of the Denomination of Origin and mainly the
variety Garnacha, its wines, its evolution in the barrels and bottles, and that
way have an important knowledge, needed before entering into the markets with a
personal wine respecting the climate and terroir.
To implant our vineyard and elaborate our wines we have chosen a small village
of outstanding viticulture prestige in Navarre: ARTAZU. It is located in the
most northern zone of Navarre, where the soil inclines from the north to the
south, from 600 meters altitude at Maneru side and 400 meters at the boundaries
of the river.
Arga, which is at the same time the municipal limit with Puenete la Reina.
The most excellent wine is one which has given pleasure by
its own natural qualities, observed Lucius Moderatus Columella; nothing must be
mixed with it which might obscure its natural taste. This timelessly valid
judgment appeared over two millennia ago, in Columella 's treatise on farming
De Re Rustica, the most comprehensive account of roman viticulture. It
is a fitting definition of a wine named to honor Columella, a wine carefully
nurtured to express its origins in the soils of South Africa's Swartland region,
and first made from 2000 vintage.
Our philosophy and our wine
With Columella we are not aiming at one of those heavily extracted
products of near-raising grapes that are currently fashionable
in some quarters and measure their success through gold medal and 100-points
scores. We strive after a wine that is fresh, flavorsome and refined, harmonious
and balanced; which offers a sense of the place of its origin: which provides
drinking pleasure, at the highest level of quality. At any stages of its life:
the wine drinker's eagerness for a further glass is the measure of our
achievement!
What allows the natural qualities of the most excellent wine to give pleasure?
First, grapes as close to perfection as possible, which demands small yields of
highest quality fruit and meticulous attention in the vineyard. Second, those
grapes must be treated with utmost care, and vilified with the least possible
intervention, respecting each vineyard's difference and allowing this character
to emerge and to blend with other characters to achieve a higher complexity.
Columbella is, above all, a wine of its vineyards.
The region and the vineyards
The Swartland region stretches north of Cape Town, between Durbanville
and Piketberg. Inland from the Altantic Ocean, centred on the town of
Malmesbury. Importantly, the area has a remarkably stable climate, allowing is
to achieve a consistent level of quality each year, in subtly different vintage
conditions.
Initially identifying fine vineyards may be the most difficult element of the
wine producing process. To achieve it demands commitment to the notion of
terroir - that unity of all the natural components that influence the wine and,
ultimately, the grape itself: soil, geology, landscape, and climate. Coming to
understand the complex interactions of all of the myriad components - as well as
the crucial effect of human intervention - is essential to liberating great
wine. The distinction of Columella derives from its terroir. The character of
the vintage and a restrained winemaking program.
We fully control seven leased vineyard parcels spread across the Swartland
district, mostly planted with syrah, with a tiny parcel of Mourvedre. We have
found, is the most expensive grape in the Swartland, and gives the highest
degree of finesse.
Viticulture is carried out under the control of Eben Sadie, including pruning
and canopy management. About half of the vineyard comprises bush vines. The
remainder being trellised; most are situated on sloping land. No artificial
irrigation is used: natural rainfall is a vital aspect of the vintage character
we want to emerge. While irrigation can sometimes be useful in extreme
situations - particularly when establishing a new vineyard - it too often leads
to over-vigorous growth and diluted grapes. We prefer to respond to different
vintage conditions in ways other than irrigating - by, for example, thinning the
crop in a particularly dry year. Our yields are always extremely small. Usually
averaging about 25 hectolitres per hectare.
All our vineyards are equally important: a vital element of Columella is the
complexity resulting from the blending of wines of different sites, with each
parcel vinified separately according to its own demands. We aim to build. Over
time, and even more diverse portfolio of soils, aspects and meso-climates.
The soils
Grapes for Columella are grown on many of the different soil-types of the
Malmesbury area, including the three most important soil structure associated
with the region:
Decomposed Slate - These well-drained soils occur in tiny outcrops across the
region, generally they are based on a clay subsoil, which increase water
retention capacity, thus making water available to the vine later in the season.
An important consideration in the absence of irrigation, the vine is then able
to ripen the grapes to perfect physiological ripeness. Giving an ideal must
weight, acidity and ph, with stable phenolics at the low yields we farm for the
slate soils deliver wines of great concentration, color and texture: the most
complete of the single soil types. The intensity of these parcels of wines means
that they are usually matured in the greatest percentage of new oak - even 100
percent, as in the 2001 vintage. They form the base of the final Columella
blend, making a vital contribution to the mid-palate.
Decomposed Granite - Such soils are common in the Malmesbury region. They are
well drained, either with clay or rocky sub soils - Both types contribute to
Columella. As the granites soil with the rocky sub soils tends to dry out
severely towards the end of ripening, rigorous control of yields is vital -
Vines from this soil for Columella deliver a mere 16-18 hectolitres pre hectare.
Avoiding imperfect ripening and dehydration of the grapes in this way, such
soils can produce wines of great depth and concentration with ripe and silky
tanning. Rich blackberry and spice aromas, and more developed farmyard flavors.
Vinification is greatly influenced by the character of the vintage; in some
years the wine might be aged in as little as 20 percent new wood, while in
cooler years it benefits from up to 100 per cent. The granite soils over clay
fresh flavors of red berry and cherry, with a higher acidity that further
enhances freshness. To preserve fresh fruitiness, these parcels are aged in 20
to 40 per cent new oak.
Table Mountain Sandstone and Slate/Clay Mixture - These soils are found in
variable proportions. The best parcels are those with a high clay content,
sometimes highly saturated with iron minerals and elements as result of rising
and falling water table. A tiny parcel that is blended into Columella is
situated in the Darling hills, towards the coastline, and the prevailing
southeasterly wind results in slightly cooler conditions than are found in the
other sites. The soil moisture content has to for perfect ripening - we allowed
only 14 hl/ha in 2001, and 25 toffee aromas, the intense dark berry flavors
marked from the early days of fermentation. The wine is usually aged in about
45-64 per cent new wood.
Vinification
What is most important to remember in vinification is that nothing of essential
values can be introduced - but a great deal can be lost. The winemaker cannot,
in fact, create: we have to understand the soils and what they produce. And
learn the best means of preserving what we receive from natural vineyards and
delivering its potential as fine wine. Eben Sadie is responsible for the
vinification of Columella.
The vinification process starts in the vineyards, as the maturity level of the
grapes is carefully scrutinized. Because Columella is a physical small project,
it is possible to maintain complete control over the ripening of vineyards.
Despite their spread across the Swartland, monitoring the physical condition of
wine and grape. Summer in unrelated Swartland vineyards is no light matter and
the vines are reaching their limits by the end of ripening. It is of supreme
importance to pick at peak maturity to ensure grapes of the highest level of
phenolics, while avoiding over-ripeness.
Picking takes place in the first few hours of daylight. The grapes are picked
into flat boxes containing about 15 kilos, and transferred to a refrigerated
truck. To be transported to the cellar as quickly as possible. There the grapes
are kept at 5-8C until early the following day. when they are painstakingly
sorted by a team of some 20 women. who let only the perfect grapes through into
the finals bin. These are de-stemmed and about 50 percent crushed. After a
father examination for any remaining stems, the must goes to covered tanks,
where it is allowed to cold soak for two to four days. At all stages, the grapes
from the different vineyards parcels are vinified separately.
Fermentation in open-top wooden fermenters of 2500 litres occurs naturally with
native yeasts, and therefore tends to be slow. Taking up to three to four weeks
to complete. Fermentation temperature is controlled, usually at 24-26C,
depending on which vineyards grapes we are dealing with. As fermentation
progresses the skins are repeatedly punched down in the age-old tradition - we
believe that pumping is not suitable at any stage for our grapes.
After fermentation, a maceration on the skins is allowed for anything up to
three weeks, depending on the vineyard, meaning that time taken from crushing to
pressing can be anything from four to six weeks. The grapes are pressed in a
tiny basket press and the wine is transferred with buckets into oak barrels.
Where it will spontaneously undergo maloloactic fermentation. The wine is then
racked - through an elaborate process, relying solely on gravity to move the
wine.
The wines are blended either after the completion of malolactic fermentation or
after about 8 months in cask. Maturation is in fine quality French oak
barriques.The wines stay in barrels for 20 to 24 months, depending on the
vintage, and are racked every three or four months. Columella is bottled without
being fined or filtered.
Bottling and storage
Bottling is the only aspect of the whole production process for which we think
high technology is appropriate. When ready for bottling, what the wine needs is
a secure home in which it can matured and, if necessary travel. Columella is
bottled in imported bottles with consistent neck diameters to ensure a good
seating for the carefully selected corks. The wine is bottled under vacuum,
which removes excess air to help prevent oxidation, and also avoids bottling
under pressure, which might cause later problems. Once the corks have fully
expanded, the wine is laid down to mature for a further six months when it is
labeled and packaged in six bottled wooden boxes.
The producers
Columella is the only wine produced by the Sadie family. Eben Sadie is
responsible for work in the vineyards and cellar, prior to striking out on his
own. He had worked, as he says in firms that make six millions of litres of wine
and ones that makes seven barrels and have always had a good time- but the best
time have been with the tiny projects, and for now I am happy to do just that.
He spent eight years roaming the world in search of answers, and has worked with
wine in Germany, France, Spain, Africa. In this way, he developed what he calls
the sense of wine - the most important of all qualities needed for involvement
in any aspect of the life of wine.
A not on the name and the label.
Why an ancient roman in modern Swartland? Columella, as mentioned earlier, was
in of the most important writers on viticulture and vinification in early Rome.
Through his work and direction, many grapes made their way up to the Rhone - on
whose steep northerly banks Syrah is now produced in its purest from. And as
Syrah forms the basis of our wine, say Eben Sadie, and as I am fascinated by
Columella and admire his work and his understanding of viticulture- well why
not?
The decision to use Latin on the labels followed on from the decision on the
name I could not have, Columella white English words - it would be like having
punk rock as background music the Louvre! The modern trend with back labels is
to use a great deal of poetic license in describing a wine. Sadie says he would
rather save my drinker the labor of reading. Rather let him or her concentrate
on the contents of the bottles. If it is thought that the text might enhance the
taste of the wine - have it translated, if necessary!